Emeralds have captivated royalty, mystics, and designers for centuries. Known for their rich green hue and ancient symbolism, these gemstones are more than beautiful—they’re powerful storytelling tools in jewelry design.
If you’re designing with emeralds or just want to understand what makes them so iconic, this crash course covers everything you need to know.
What Is the May Birthstone?
The birthstone for May is the emerald, a variety of the mineral beryl, colored green by trace elements like chromium and vanadium. It’s one of the four traditional precious gemstones (alongside diamond, sapphire, and ruby).
Where Do Emeralds Come From?
Emeralds are mined in several regions, each giving the gem unique characteristics:
- 🇮c🇴 Colombia: Home to the most prized emeralds. Known for their deep, velvety green color.
- 🇿🇲 Zambia: Produces stones with a bluish tint and often greater clarity.
- 🇧🇷 Brazil: Offers lighter-toned emeralds, often in larger sizes.
Each origin offers something different in color, tone, and inclusions.
Color vs. Clarity in Emeralds
Unlike diamonds, color is the most important factor in emerald value.
- Ideal emeralds are rich, saturated green with even tone.
- Most emeralds have inclusions (called jardin or “garden”)—a natural feature, not a flaw.
- High clarity emeralds are extremely rare, and most are treated with oils to enhance appearance.
Clarity: The “Jardin” Effect
Nearly all emeralds contain inclusions. These are known as jardin, which means “garden” in French.
While excessive inclusions can impact durability, many inclusions are accepted (and expected!) as part of the emerald’s natural beauty.
Emeralds are commonly treated with oils to fill fractures and improve transparency.
Emerald Hardness & Care
Emeralds are rated 7.5–8 on the Mohs scale, making them hard but not tough due to internal inclusions.
Tips for care:
- Avoid ultrasonic cleaners
- Use protective settings (like bezels)
- Remove during high-impact activities
The Emerald Cut: Designed for Durability
The emerald cut isn’t just elegant—it was created to protect the stone.
- Step-cut facets reduce stress and showcase depth
- Also common in oval, pear, and cabochon cuts
This iconic cut minimizes the risk of chipping while enhancing color.
Symbolism & History
Emeralds have been associated with:
- ✨ Rebirth & renewal
- 💚 Love, intuition, and wisdom
- 👑 Royal power and protection
Fun fact: Cleopatra was famously obsessed with emeralds, gifting them as symbols of status and legacy.
Emeralds in Jewelry Design
Designers love emeralds for their depth, drama, and versatility.
Emeralds shine in:
- Vintage or Art Deco styles
- Modern minimalist settings
- Yellow gold or platinum
- Statement earrings, bold rings, chokers
Design Tip: Pair with white diamonds for soft contrast, or go bold with mixed gemstones.
Fun Fact: They’re Ancient
The oldest emeralds date back 2.97 billion years—older than dinosaurs! 🦕
Some even contain microscopic inclusions that give scientists clues about Earth’s deep history.
Final Thoughts
Emeralds are more than just a pretty green gem. They’re symbols of strength, elegance, and storytelling—perfect for designers who want to infuse meaning into their work.
Whether you’re designing with emerald components or dreaming of vintage-inspired creations, understanding the history and properties of emeralds will elevate your approach.
Want to experiment with emerald-inspired components in your digital jewelry designs? Download the JewelKitPro Trial Kit and start composing like a pro.